Recently in Keyboard Reviews Category

Finally getting around to trying some new boards.

Next up is the brown-cherry, tenkeyless Filco Majestouch (FKBN87M/EB). Thanks to elitekeyboards.com, I got this board from a US retailer at a fairly decent price. They shipped pretty quickly, so I'm pretty happy with them.

Short version: Like that it has more keys than HHKB2. Like the key feel. For me Cherry MX Brown > Topre. Would still prefer sun layout and usb hub of HHKB2.

I got a chance to use the board at work for a few hours. Typed a 3000 word document with it.

Interestingly, hands don't hurt that much, even though it's not a ergo keyboard. Probably about the same amount of tension as I would get with the HHKB2, but I like the feel better than the HHKB2.

I can't seem to type on the Topre boards with out bottoming out on every key. Maybe the resistance is too light, or the "give" is too fast. On this board, I feel like I can type a little faster and not stress my fingers as much. It reminds me of the Kinesis countoured boards (as it should, same switch), which I also very much like.

The layout is also much more useful than the HHKB. Yes the HHKB is small, but the layout compression is over-doing it. Separate F-keys are still useful, as well as the most important arrow and page up/down blocks.

I've put a palm rest that I had from before in front of the board. Oddly though, it seems that the rest is too high.. elitekeyboards sells a FILCO-branded one that seems a bit lower, so perhaps I'll try that one.

Also ordered the new version of the thinkpad keyboard. You can read about that one here.

Now if only they made the majestouch in the Sun layout like the HHKB. And also with a USB 2.0 hub. Those are the only to places where I still like the HHKB2 over this board.

Model: ML0100 Revision AB
Switch Type: Topre Capacitive switch
Cost: 19000 yen
Connector Type: PS/2

Topre is the OEM manufacturer for the HHKB Pro line, and they produce a series of their own keyboard models which are unfortunately only available in Japan. I've recently acquired their sole US layout model, the Realfoce 101.

Layout

The most unremarkable aspect of this keyboard is the layout. It is the standard 101 IBM layout. No windows keys, F keys in 4-key blocks, numpad, etc. If you were to take the Realforce branding off of it, you'd probably not be able to tell it apart from some other plain jane old 101 keyboard.

Other Observations

There's something odd about the printing on the keys of this keyboard. Something about the font, though I can't put my finger on it. The font looks decidedly "plainer" than every other keyboard I have seen. This only adds to this keyboard's "boring" look.

The chord for the keyboard comes out on the side, which is somewhat unusual. There's a small chord groove so that the bottom of the board can lie flush against the surface underneath it.

This keyboard is heavy. It's spec'ed at 1.4kg, and the weight is mostly in the base. It's heavy enough that you won't accidentally be sliding it around your work area.

Here's a shot from the side:

Key Feel

As the switches used in this keyboard are made by the same company as those used in the HHKB Pro 2, the feel of the switches are rather similar. The Realforce 101 implements a ergonomic design employed by some other keyboards in which the keys that are usually pressed with weaker fingers are fitted with less resistance springs. In the Realforce 101's case, I believe this means they use lighter springs for the keys that are pressed by the pinkies and ring fingers. The spec sheet claims that the peak activation force ranges from 35g to 55g depending on the key. The HHKB Pro 2 has 45g keys throughout.

As such, typing on the Realforce 101 definitely feels "ligher" than it doesn on the HHKB. In my review of the Keytronic that employed a similar weighting technique for membrane switches, I noted that the effect confused my hands as they would encounter keys with widely differing weights. I find this not to be the case with the Realforce 101. Probably because the feel and action of the keys is so much more consistent.
The Topre capacitive switches -- when compared to the Keytronic's membrane switches -- in general have a much softer and gradual "hump" to get over before the key resistance gives and your keypress is registered.

The thunk made by the key bottoming out is a bit higher pitched than that of the HHKB Pro 2. Perhaps this is due to different plastics used for the keycaps?

General thoughts

I wanted to try this keyboard because I didn't like the fact that the HHKB Pro 2's key set was so limited. This keyboard gives you the full 101-key layout with the good capacitive switches, an effective ergonomic varied weighting of keys, and a high quality, heavy, full n-key-rollover-supporting model.

A few downsides to note, however, is the fact that it's ps/2 only, and because of it's 101 layout, it doesn't have a windows key. Most all new keyboards are USB and 104 key, and some OS's like OSX even demand that you have three modifier keys, though you could probably get by if you're willing to map your caps lock key to a control key (something that I do all the time).

As my environments are usually not constrained for desk space, I'd probably pick this model over the HHKB Pro 2. Compared to the HHKB, there are a few features that I miss. One is the two step rear height adjustment. The Realforce only has one giant fold out leg, which make the keyboard a tad too slanted for my tastes.

That being said, if you need a USB keyboard, or you're really pressed for space, there's no reason to force yourself to get the Realforce over a HHKB. They're equally good keyboards, and it's really up to the situation you want to use them in.

I've been using the keyboard for a week or so now, and the one disappointment I've had is comfort. I've been using the MS Natural Elite for the past few months now, and going back to a non-ergo keyboard has seemingly inflamed my wrists more than I expected. It's odd, because I can type on the thinkpad for a long time, and I could also type on the HHKB Pro 2 for long periods without strain. It might be a matter of getting used to the lighter keys on this keyboard, or finding a better posture, but I still can't deny that I feel instantly comfortable on the MS Natural in a variety of postures. At some point, the greatest keyswitches in the world still don't matter if your wrists hurt.

Finally, I should note that I "feel" like I am making less typo's on the Realforce when compared to the HHKB. But in general, I think I make more mistakes than on the MS Natural. Interestingly, typingtest.com tells me otherwise. I clock in at about 92wpm/99 gross on the Realforce and about 87wpm/92 gross with the MS Natural.

Model: F8E208-BLK
Switch Type: Rubber membrane dome
Cost: $25 from newegg.com
Connector Type: PS/2

I found out about this keyboard through my friend Phil at work. He seems to be fairly picky about keyboards like I am, so I took his recommendation seriously. I'd been using a Powerbook for the last year, so I didn't really get a chance to try out many PS/2 keyboards, but now that I've built a PC again, this was the first one on my list.

Layout

The keyboard has a mostly standard layout, but with a few notable exceptions. It is one of the few cheap ergonomic split keyboards with an actualy split spacebar, so you can input a space with either thumb independently. The Return key is the larger L-shape, which moves the backslash key to the right of the right shift (The position of the backslash key is very odd indeed, but it actually hasn't bothered me that much. The only time you use it is when you're manually typing paths in Windows). In the upper right, there are three power state buttons, one for Sleep, Wakeup, and Power (since it's a PS/2 keyboard, you need BIOS support to make the Power/Wakeup buttons work, I think). Also, unlike Microsoft natural keyboards, the 6 key is on the right of the split. Layout officionados will tell you that this is the correct position.

Backslash is under the enter key.

Also, another minor deviation from the standard layout is that the left set of modifier keys (control/windows/alt) is slightly indented from the left edge -- maybe a half key's worth. This makes the relative position of the modifier keys and the other standard letter keys a little different from a standard non-split keyboard. I was using my Keytronic keyboard before I received this, and soon after I switched, I found myself hitting Alt+F when I was trying to hit Alt+D, because the relative position of the Alt and D/F keys had changed. I quickly got used to this though.

Left modifier keys are slightly indented.

Power state manipulation keys in the upper right.

The '6' key is on the right of the split.

Other Features

As far as split keyboards go, this one has a fairly standard ergonomic design. It's not the lightest of keyboards, and it doesn't have fold out legs on the back. There's a slight raise in the middle of the keyboard, but it's not quite as prominent as the MS Natural 4000.

Key rollover is implemented by the standard phantom key lockout mechanism. I haven't found any ghost keys yet, but the standards w+q+a test shows that in some combinations of 3 or more keys, only the first two pressed will register.

Key Feel

Since I had experimented with Phil's keyboard prior to purchasing this keyboard, I knew what it was going to feel like. It has a pleasantly light feel, with good feedback. I'd say I actually prefer it to the Keytronic, because this keyboard has uniform key resistance so it doesn't confuse my hands. The keys aren't the quietest -- there's a noticeable clack when the key rebounds, but I'm no picky about the sound as long as it feels good.

Unlike Belkin's USB version, all the keys feel the same, and I don't have any problems with certain keys being harder to press than others. It's quite amazing to me that a company would sell two keyboards under the same "Ergoboard" brand name, with such different characteristics. It seems like it would be fairly confusing to customers. But like most companies, I'm sure Belking just re-brands an OEM model, so these things are somewhat unavoidable.

Overall Conclusion

I like this keyboard a lot. I've regained a very fast typing speed after typing on it for just one day. The feel is easily as good as the Keytronic, and the split design is at least as good as the MS Natural Elite which I was using for a while. It's already become my keyboard of choice for home use, and probably soon for work use as well. The only real drawback is that it's PS/2 only (and it comes with a PS/2 -> AT adapter!), so Mac user's are out of luck unless they find a PS/2 to USB adapter.. and finding one that works can be difficult (I couldn't find one). I also wish it had a negative tilt option, but most keyboards don't, so I can't really fault this one.

At $25 bucks it's a total steal. Unless you absolutely want mechanical switches or fancier rollover support, it's hard to justify paying more for a general use keyboard. It's a great alternative for those people who don't like MS Naturals for whatever reason.

Model: Number 1048
Switch Type: Silent Rubber Dome
Cost: $45 off of Buy.com

Microsoft's latest entry in the ergonomic keyboard arena. This time, with black and silver stylings and a significantly different shaping.

Fixes

The newer models of Microsoft's keyboard line tend to have certain annoying features that everyone complains about. Fortunately, they seem to be all fixed in this model.

• F-lock is persistent across boots
• The arrow keys have standard arrangment
• the page up/dn block has the standard 3-across-by-2-down arrangement

Ergonomic features

This version introduces quite a few changes that make it pretty different from previous MS 'natural' keyboards:

• Negative tilt: The earliest of the natural keyboards had flip stands that would raise the front end of the keyboard. The 4000 has a detachable mount piece on the front, which raises the front side of the keyboard up.
• Layout: The keys are arranged in a somewhat more 'fan'-like manner, not unlike the SmartBoard, but not as extreme (inter-row positioning is still offset, like normal QWERTY keyboards).
• Faux Leather Palm rest: Black pleather covers the wrist/palm wrest.

Hits and Misses

I feel this keyboard gets some things right, but also has a few_major_ annoyances. To list a few:

• Negative tilt feels good, but the palm rest part is not wide enough under the arrow keys to be able to comfortably rest your palm and type the arrow keys. Also, because the front is raised up so much, if you have your mouse on the same desk surface, it can become difficult to adjust your seat so that you are at a comfortable level for both your keyboard and your mouse.
• Layout is ok, but somewhat difficult to get used to. I'm sure if you use it for a long time, that's not much of a problem.
• The key caps are not cupped, and have smooth and slippery surfaces. For me this is a big no-no. I found my self having difficulty orienting my fingers by feeling around. Most all keyboards have cupped key caps so that your fingers can rest in them and feel their way around. Their absence makes the 4000 look more stylish, but in my opinion, much more difficult to type on. Additionally, some keys towards the top of the keyboard have rounded corners, which means they are even more difficult to strike when not looking.
• The space bar is slippery. I tend to push the spacebar down with the side of my thumb, and it feels very awkward and inprecise on this keyboard.

Unrelated to the ergonomics, this keyboard has a few other nice features:

• The software that comes with it for the mac seems pretty decent. It can remap command and option just for your external keyboard, and keep it in tact for your built in one.
• The volume keys worked on a mac without a driver
• The multi-key rollover seemed pretty good. It seems to support USB's maximum of 6 simultaneous keys pretty well.

Key feel

This keyboard has extremely quiet and somewhat tactile keys. Nothing as good as a laptop-style scissor switch keyboard or a mechanical one, but decent for a rubber dome keyboard. (I'd say the Apple Wireless Pro and the Keytronic are better). The resistance comes at the beginning of the press, and gives way when a certain threshold is met.

The sound, as I mentioned before, is pretty much non-existent. Typing on this keyboard wouldn't wake a mouse. I guess some people like that, but I'd rather have better feel over silence.

Conclusion

I stopped using this keyboard after a few days. All the minor annoyances were too much, and I preferred the experience of my previous keyboard much more (MS Natural Elite). Here are the things they need to fix before I would try this keyboard again:

• cupped key caps
• adjustable negative tilt: it's nice to include it, but just having one monster plastic stand makes it difficult to use in many situations.
• a less slippery key surface
• slightly more feel-focused (rather than sound-optimized) key switches

Model: Keytronic E03601 (USB)
Switch Type: Membrane/Rubber dome
Cost: ~$30

I was turned on to Keytronic boards by a co-worker who had one at his desk at work. Looking at their website, it appears they make all types of keyboards with different kinds of switches (some rated for 30 million cycles, others for less). I decided to pick one from their "ergonomic" series, though there is actually nothing special about the layout of this keyboard.

"Ergonomics"

The reason they claim this keyboard is ergonomically friendly has to do with how they fine tune the weight of the keys based on their position, and the finger you're most likely to type the key with. This means keys toward the outside are the lightest (for the pink and ring finger), and keys toward the inside seem to be heavier (thumb, index finger).

I tried this keyboard for a week at work, and I ended up with mixed feeling about this feature. On the one hand, it does seem to make typing more comfortable and requiring less effort. Especially the weaker fingers don't strain as much to push keys down. On the other hand, an annoying effect is created: perhaps I've been using uniform-weighted keys for too long, but it seems difficult for my fingers not to expect that all keys will have roughly the same resistance. In practice, what this meant was that, to my hands, after typing a few of the lighter keys, the heavier keys would feel noticeably heavier. So much so, that often I would not press the heavier key strongly enough to actually register a typed character. I found myself thinking, "but that other key was so much lighter.." Because I'm used to uniform key weight, the existence of some lighter keys make my hands expect all the other keys to be light as well.

Once I realized this, a different kind of mind set developed. Maybe I didn't type on it for long enough, but it seemed difficult to learn which keys were actually lighter than the others. So instead, I started typing all the keys very strongly, and some of them would just go in easier than others. This was not only physically more tiring, but mentally draining as well.

In the end, I felt that this feature was more of an annoyance than a benefit. For my hands, uniformly lighter keys are better than selectively lighter keys.

Key Feel

When it comes down to it, the feel of the keys are closer to a typical rubber dome switch than a mechanical switch. Keytronic didn't perform any magic to make their domes feel radically different from a standard one. However, that being said, the way that the dome gives -- when a threshold pressure is reached -- is indeed unique. The resisting pressure almost completely gives away once the peak pressure is reached, and your finger almost feels like it's getting sucked into the board. The corollary to this that these domes don't give you much help picking your fingers back up when releasing the key.

In the end, it's hard to rate this feel with objectivity. I definitely prefer it to a standard rubber dome switch, but I don't prefer it to scissor switches (like the IceKey), and I don't prefer it enough that I would take it over an effective ergonomic layout.

Looks and Layout

The layout of this keyboard is a very standard IBM 104 key layout. So much so, that sometimes I glance over and mistake it for my black IBM model M keyboard. I got the black color, which looks O.K., but not particularly classy or distinctive. Overall there's not much special about the appearance of the layout of this keyboard. That's par for the course at $30 though.

Other Notes

As with other lower-end keyboards, the N-key rollover support on this keyboard is non-existent. It uses standard anti-ghosting techniques that sometimes don't let you press more than 3 keys at the same time and have their keystrokes all register. There was no ghosting as far as I could tell, so unless you type extremely quickly, this shouldn't be a problem.

On my PowerBook, as well as my Intel Mac Mini at work, this keyboard exhibited an unusual behavior. It seemed that keystrokes would be communicated to the foreground application in bunches of 2 or 3 characters. There was certainly an intermittent delay between keystrokes and letters appearing on the screen, but it did not seem to be consistent. I didn't investigate it enough to narrow down the problem. For all I know, it could be a some weird timing interaction between OSX and the keyboard controller on this board, or it could be something to do with just the keyboard itself. In any case, other usb keyboards on both machines don't show this problem, so potential buyers should be aware. This phenomenon didn't cause any input to be lost however, so at most it's a minor annoyance.

Final Words

You can only have a certain level of expectation for a $30 keyboard. Given that, I don't think this board dissapoints in any way, but it didn't also wow me to the extent that I would consider it an extremely good deal. At home, I still prefer to use the IceKey, and even at $50, I think the IceKey is more worth it for the money. On the other hand, this is one of the few keyboards that have a pretty good feel but are inexpensive, and so for those looking to experiment, it's something that you can try without making a huge investment.